A 30-minute self-inspection in May or September catches roughly 70 percent of developing roof problems before they become repairs. Most Eastside homeowners never do it because the process feels intimidating. It is not. With a ladder you can borrow from a neighbor and a phone for photos, you can identify the same warning signs we look for during professional inspections.

This is the checklist we use at Atrax when we walk a Bellevue, Kirkland, Bothell, Redmond, or Seattle roof for the first time, adapted for what a homeowner can safely check from the ground and from a ladder. Print it, walk your roof system once or twice a year, and you will catch issues at month three instead of year three.

What You Need

• Phone with camera and good zoom for documentation and detail shots
• Stable extension ladder rated for your house height (most Eastside two-stories need a 28-foot ladder for proper extension above the eaves)
• Binoculars or zoom lens for slope and ridge inspection from the ground
• Notebook or notes app for tracking findings month to month
• Flashlight for attic inspection

What you do NOT need:

• Climbing on the roof (homeowners should not walk roof slopes, especially wet ones)
• Specialized inspection equipment
• Roofing experience
• More than 30 to 45 minutes

The point of homeowner inspection is to identify items that need professional attention, not to fix anything yourself.

Part 1: Ground-Level Perimeter Walk (10 minutes)

Walk slowly around the entire house. At each side, stop and look up at the roof, eaves, and gutters. What to look for:

Visible from below at the eaves:

• Sagging gutter sections that have pulled away from fascia (water has been overflowing back here)
• Stains on fascia or soffit indicating water has been running where it should not
• Plants growing in gutters (signals chronic debris accumulation)
• Detached or missing downspouts
• Visible rust streaks below gutter seams
• Damaged or missing soffit panels (sometimes indicates rodent or bird intrusion)

Visible against the sky line:

• Curled or cupped shingle edges on roof slopes
• Missing shingles showing dark patches where attached shingles should be
• Lifted ridge cap on the roof peak
• Damaged or missing chimney flashing visible from a distance
• Tree branches within 6 feet of the roof or actually touching it

Visible in the yard and driveway:

• Granule piles in splash blocks at downspout outlets
• Shingle pieces or asphalt fragments below the gutters
• Tree debris piles indicating heavy canopy drop

Photograph everything you note. Wide shot plus close-up. Mark the date and side of house.

Part 2: Closer Inspection from a Ladder (10 minutes)

Set the ladder on level ground with a stable rest against the gutter (not the gutter edge itself, which damages it). Extend the ladder 3 feet above the eave for safety. Do not climb onto the roof. Inspect from the ladder.

At the eaves (look without climbing onto the roof):

• Drip edge condition. The metal edge along the eave should be straight, painted or finished, and tight against the deck. Rusted, bent, or missing drip edge is a flag.
• First course of shingles. Should lie flat against the deck with no lifting. The corners of the first shingles tell you about adhesive condition.
• Ice and water shield visible. On homes installed correctly, you can sometimes see the dark ice and water shield peeking out where the shingles end at the drip edge. Visible underlayment failures (tears, gaps) are problems.
• Soffit ventilation. Look at the underside of the eave. Soffit vents should be clear, with screening intact. Blocked or painted-over soffit vents are common on older homes and reduce attic ventilation.
• Fascia condition. Touch the fascia board (wood under the gutter). It should feel firm. Soft or rotted fascia is a major flag.

At the gutters (lift the gutter cover or look in):

• Debris level. Some leaves are normal between cleanings. Standing water in the gutter at any point means slope is wrong or downspout is blocked.
• Granule accumulation. Heavy granule deposits in the gutter (not just a few) indicate shingle wear.
• Hanger condition. Pull gently on the gutter. It should not move much. Loose hangers mean the gutter is pulling away.
• Downspout flow. Pour a gallon of water in the gutter at the highest point. Watch it flow to the downspout and out. Slow flow means slope problems or downspout blockage.

Photograph everything that does not look right.

Part 3: Ground-Level Slope Inspection with Binoculars (5 minutes)

Stand back 20 to 30 feet from the house. Use binoculars or phone zoom to inspect each slope methodically.

On each slope, look for:

• Granule loss patterns. Dark patches of bare asphalt where granules are missing
• Shingle curling or cupping especially on south and west slopes
• Cracked or split shingles showing horizontal or vertical splits
• Moss or lichen growth on shaded slopes (north and east face)
• Algae streaks running vertically down slopes (dark gray to black streaks)
• Vegetation in valleys indicating chronic debris and moisture
• Damaged or missing flashings at chimneys, skylights, roof-to-wall transitions
• Aged pipe vent boots appearing weathered, lifted, or cracked
• Ridge cap condition at the peak (lifted, missing, or weathered ridge caps)

Document each slope with a wide photo. Compare to previous inspections to track changes.

Part 4: Attic Inspection (10 minutes)

Climb into the attic with a flashlight. What to look for:

Daylight visibility. Turn off your flashlight and let your eyes adjust for 60 seconds. Daylight visible through the roof deck means active failures. Document each point of light.

Moisture signs:

• Water staining on roof deck or rafters (dark patches, sometimes with white salt deposits)
• Active dripping during or after rain
• Wet or compressed insulation (compressed where water has hit it)
• Mold on rafters or roof deck (looks like dark patches, sometimes fuzzy)
• Rotted wood that gives way when pressed gently with a pencil

Ventilation signs:

• Soffit intake vents visible and clear from inside (look for daylight at soffit edges)
• Ridge vent or roof vents visible from inside (should see light at the peak or roof penetrations)
• Insulation displacement blocking soffit vents (insulation pushed up against the eaves stopping airflow)

Pest signs:

• Droppings indicating rodent or bat intrusion
• Nests or chewed insulation
• Damage to ducts or wiring

Photograph anything concerning. Note the location relative to a known reference point (chimney, vent stack, attic hatch) for follow-up.

Part 5: Walk Inside the House (5 minutes)

Inspect ceilings throughout the house, especially:

• Rooms below the chimney
• Rooms below skylights
• Rooms below pipe vents (typically bathrooms and kitchens have pipes through the roof)
• Rooms below valley intersections (look at the roof from outside to identify where valleys are)
• Upper floor exterior walls (water can run down from a flashing failure and appear at the wall, not the ceiling)

What to look for:

• New stains that were not there at the last inspection
• Spreading stains that have grown since last check
• Fresh paint over old stains (sometimes covers active leaks)
• Water marks on window frames near exterior walls
• Bubbled or peeling paint indicating moisture inside the wall
• Mold or mildew in corners or along ceiling edges

Photograph every stain or moisture sign with date.

The Master Checklist

Print or screenshot for each inspection:

Perimeter walk:

• [ ] All sides walked and photographed
• [ ] Gutter condition documented
• [ ] Visible shingle issues noted
• [ ] Tree clearance verified

Ladder inspection:

• [ ] Drip edge condition
• [ ] First course shingle condition
• [ ] Soffit ventilation clear
• [ ] Fascia condition (firm, not soft)
• [ ] Gutter debris and slope check
• [ ] Downspout flow test

Slope binocular inspection:

• [ ] Each slope photographed
• [ ] Granule loss noted
• [ ] Shingle condition (curling, cracking)
• [ ] Moss or algae presence
• [ ] Flashing condition at penetrations
• [ ] Ridge cap condition

Attic inspection:

• [ ] No daylight visible through deck
• [ ] No moisture or staining
• [ ] No mold
• [ ] Ventilation intake and exhaust clear
• [ ] No pest activity

Interior ceiling check:

• [ ] All rooms below chimney, skylights, pipe vents inspected
• [ ] No new or spreading stains
• [ ] Upper floor walls checked

Documentation:

• [ ] Photos saved with date
• [ ] Notes compared to previous inspection
• [ ] Items needing professional attention listed

When to Call a Pro

After your inspection, any of these findings should trigger a professional follow-up:

Urgent (call within 7 days):

• Active water leaks or fresh staining
• Daylight visible through the attic
• Missing or significantly damaged shingles
• Damaged flashing at a chimney or skylight
• Soft or rotted fascia

Schedule soon (call within 30 days):

• Heavy granule loss in gutters or splash blocks
• Multiple curling or cupping shingles
• Visible moss or lichen growth
• Sagging gutters or detached downspouts
• Inadequate attic ventilation signs

Plan ahead (call within 90 days):

• Aging pipe boots showing weathering
• Algae streaks on slopes
• Tree branches needing pruning
• Annual professional inspection regardless of findings

Always schedule:

• Annual professional inspection at year 10 and every year after
• Twice-yearly gutter cleaning (spring and fall)
• Moss prevention every 1 to 3 years depending on exposure

How Often to Do This Self-Inspection

Spring (April-May) after the wet season ends. Document winter wear. Schedule any needed repairs before the next rainy season starts.

Fall (September-October) before the rainy season starts. Make sure everything is sealed, gutters are clean, and any developing problems are caught before saturation.

After major storms with wind over 50 mph, falling trees in the neighborhood, or hail (rare in PNW). Storm damage often shows up only after the weather clears.

Before selling the home so you know what a buyer’s inspector will find.

Before buying a home with your own walk plus a professional inspection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I climb on my roof to do a closer inspection?

No. Homeowners falling off roofs is one of the most common house-related injuries. Wet shingles are slick, dry shingles release granules under foot pressure, and roof slopes that look manageable from the ground are steeper than they look. Inspect from a ladder at the eave only, and use binoculars for slope detail.

What if I find something concerning?

Photograph it from multiple angles. Note the date and weather conditions. Compare to the previous inspection if you have one. Then call a roofing contractor for professional inspection. Most contractors offer free assessments.

How long should my asphalt roof actually last?

In Eastside Washington conditions, architectural asphalt typically gives 22 to 28 years with proper maintenance. 3-tab is shorter (15 to 20 years). Premium designer shingles can reach 28 to 35 years. The PNW climate compresses every manufacturer warranty by roughly 5 to 8 years compared to spec sheets.

What is the most common thing self-inspectors miss?

Soffit ventilation problems. Most homeowners do not look at the underside of the eave or do not know what blocked soffit vents look like. Inadequate attic ventilation accelerates shingle aging from below and is one of the most common preventable causes of premature roof failure.

Do I need a professional inspection if I do these self-inspections?

Yes. Self-inspection catches the visible issues. Professional inspection catches the things that require roof walking, attic specialist knowledge, ventilation calculation, and trained eyes for early-stage problems. Best practice is twice-yearly self-inspection plus annual professional inspection.

Is the annual professional inspection worth paying for?

Many contractors offer free annual inspections to existing customers and competitive pricing to new customers ($150 to $300 typical). Yes, it is worth it. Catching one developing problem at year 12 instead of year 18 often pays back the inspection cost many times over.

When to Call Atrax

If your self-inspection found issues that warrant professional attention, or if you want to schedule an annual professional inspection, the right next step is to call us. We have inspected and repaired hundreds of Eastside roofs and offer no-cost assessments for new customers.

Atrax Roof and Gutter is licensed, bonded, and insured in Washington. GAF Certified and Nu-Ray Metals installer. We serve Kirkland, Bellevue, Bothell, Redmond, Seattle, and surrounding Eastside neighborhoods.

Call (425) 449-2878 for roof inspection. We respond within 24 hours and schedule on-site visits within five business days during the spring and fall inspection seasons.